A Brief History of Men’s Suits
Some dismiss fashion as shallow. But is it really? Scientists estimate that our ancestors started covering themselves up 170,000 years ago. Although it probably began as a way to protect from the elements, clothes gradually acquired a different meaning. As human networks became more complex, what one wore indicated the group they belonged to. Even today, our sartorial choices allude to our affluence, profession and social standing. Experiments show that it only takes milliseconds for people to start making assumptions about us. So, rather than being shallow, fashion and the quick conclusions it helps us reach, could actually be a remnant of our ancestors’ “fight or flight” survival instinct.
What was fashionable in the ancient world?
Cavemen wore skins stitched together. Leaders of the tribe and successful hunters probably had access to the best skins. Then, over time, people figured out how to produce plant and animal based fibers. The clothes they made were simple, e.g. tunics, and there was little room for creativity. However, the rich and powerful sourced the best materials and adorned their outfits with jewellery. Gradually, men’s fashion evolved and shirts, breeches and coats made their appearance. The variety of options widened the gap between the rich and the poor with the former setting new, often extravagant, trends and the latter opting for more practical clothing.
The birth of the 3 piece suit
Two men played a vital role in the history of suits. In 1666, Charles II decreed that his courtiers would no longer wear French fashions and promoted long coats, vests and knee breeches. Thus the 3 piece suit was born, although the decision was probably motivated by the monarch’s wish to moderate the extravagance of his court rather than any sartorial interest. A similar style was gradually adopted in other countries but, if we’re to name the one person who invented the modern suit, we’ll have to pick George Bryan Brummell. A dandy who, in the early 19th century, socialised with aristocrats and befriended the Prince of Wales, he became better known as Beau Brummell and to him we owe many of the habits of a modern gentleman: he thought fitting was more important than opulence in clothes, he made full-length trousers fashionable and he popularised tailored shirts and personal hygiene!
The evolution of the modern suit
From Beau Brummell onwards, the suit became the crown jewel of men’s fashion and evolved to adapt to the times. The knee-length frock coat gave way to the tailcoat, which was only long in the back, and this was then replaced by the short dinner jacket we know today. This wasn’t just a matter of fashion but reflected a more active lifestyle that required convenient clothes. When life was good, suit fashion became more flamboyant but, in times of financial depression or war, colours were solemn and the rationing of fabric led to more sensible cuts, e.g. making single-breasted suits more popular than double-breasted ones. There have even been times, e.g. in the ‘60s and ‘70s, when the younger generation renounced the suit as a manifestation of the conservative lifestyle of their parents’ generation. A few years later, the yuppie lifestyle made suits popular again.
Since their invention, suits have been a stable feature of men’s fashion, adapting to the times and the passing fads but always remaining the ultimate statement piece for the modern gentleman. A man of style and substance. A man who is conscious of fashion but not a slave to it. This is the man that the Aristocracy London designs limited edition suits for.
