Anatomy Of A 3 Piece Suit Trousers Guide 2 830x430

Anatomy of a 3 Piece Suit, Part II: Trousers Guide

If you’re following our style and etiquette blog, you’ll have already read the first part of our series on The Anatomy of Suit Jackets and WaistCoats. In this second part, we’ll move to the trousers, the unsung heroes of men’s fashion. No one notices trousers when they fit well but, if the fit’s wrong, you can’t take your eyes off them.

This list will guide you through the key points of suit trousers’ anatomy so you can decide which style works best for you.

The definitive guide to suit trousers

1. Waist adjusters and belt loops
Your waistline may fluctuate over time or even over the course of a single day. This is managed with the help of belt loops or waist adjusters. If your trousers have belt loops, you should always wear a belt that matches the colour of your shoes. Waist adjusters work with either a pulley or buttons and they’re popular because they draw less attention to your waistline.

2. Flat fronted or pleated
If the front of your trousers right below the waist is flat, they’re flat fronted. If you see folds of fabric there, they’re pleated trousers. Although flat fronted trousers are more fashionable, pleated ones are making a comeback because they work well with fuller physiques and they feel more comfortable when you walk or sit down.

3. Trouser pockets
Front pockets come in two styles: slanted, which run at an angle from the waistline to the side seam and are perfectly positioned to welcome your hands, and vertical. Vertical pockets run along the side seam, which means the front of the trousers appears smooth and uninterrupted. Back pockets are usually welt or jetted, which means they’re internal with a single or double trimming respectively. Sometimes they’re adorned with buttons and they may even come with flaps, although this style increases the volume. Remember that you should never put anything in the back pockets.

4. Cuffed or uncuffed
Check where the trouser leg ends. If the fabric is folded on the outside, the trousers are cuffed. If the fold is on the inside, so a hem, they’re uncuffed.  Cuffs add weight, keeping the leg of the trousers straight, but uncuffed trousers make your legs look longer.

5. Break
The break describes how the trousers’ leg touches your shoe. If it barely touches it, without creating a fold, the trousers have no break. If you only see one fold, the trousers are half break and, finally, if you see multiple folds, they’re full break. Full break trousers aren’t fashionable anymore as they make the trousers look baggy. Bear in mind this is a feature you have complete control over because you’ll hem your new trousers to the length of your choice.

If you want to know more about suits, read our blog How Should A Suit Fit and check out out collection of suits for some sartorial inspiration.